Margaux

had dinner at margaux, a michelin star french restaurant on the under den linden, a famous street through the north part of berlin. i got there at about 10:45pm. my table was prepared. the wine list was a fully bound book, reminiscent of the wine book at patina. the wines were overpriced, not even taking into account it was euro not dollar, but the selection was vast. i ordered a 1979 chateau marquis de tempte from margaux. the wine was brought out by the sommelier, who, without asking, poured himself a taste along with mine after uncorking, and discussed the wine with me. i really, really liked this and i wish this was how it was always done. his knowledge of the wine, even though it is only a 4th class, was very, very deep, and his tasting notes were really helpful. he decanted the wine over a candle (as I was taught but rarely seen done), and, impressively separated the wine from the sediment so precisely very very little wine was left in the bottle. an absolute pro.

there was no choice of what food to order, it was only a pre fix. an 18 course pre fix. now, most all of the courses were very small, many just one bite.

the meal began with two courses of amuse bouche. there was a celery foam, and a bit of fresh herbs with sheep milk cheese, and a little piece of round bread with 7 different vegetable mouse on it. the head waiter explained to me the chef michael hoffman serves no starches, only vegetables and meat, always with fresh herbs. i was served by 4 waiters. one was in charge of the beverages. my glasses were always filled with just a couple drinks worth of liquid in each, and after each drink of wine, or water, the glass was topped off, just a bit. one waiter was in charge of the clearings and resettings of the table, one brought out the food from the kitchen, and the head waiter then actually did the saucing of the food right in front of me. he applied all the sauces and garnishments to the plate as he explained in great detail everything involved in the dish. back in my fine dining days this was the job of the expediter back in the kitchen. having it done right at the table was daring, as the presentation got one chance at being right. and, through 18 courses, he never missed.
after the two amuse bouches, the first course was raw tuna served on grapefruit, watercress, and endive, and finished with a cold grapefruit reduction. the pairing of tuna and grapefruit was inspired, and made me wonder why i hadn't had it before.
Next course was king crab and papaya, finished with a yellow curry sauce.
Next was spring vegetables; pumpkin, artichoke, leek, beet, cabbage.
finished with jelly of parsley.
Next course was ray (as in what killed the crocodile hunter) in a coulees of vegetables and coriander.
Next course was a medallion of beef tenderloin with roasted lettuce. this was finished table-side with a whole truffle shaved over the top. i ate the roasted lettuce and the deeeelicious truffles and cut the tenderloin up to make it look like i ate some.
Next course was goat cheese, olives, and rhubarb
Next course was well, 10 courses of dessert. ten tiny desserts were brought out, one bite each, one at a time. i wont remember them all but it included
lavendar creme brulee with earl grey tea float
coffee mousse
chocolate mousse with mango chip
grapefruit sauce over fresh creme
cream sorbet with a shaving of dark chocolate
benigne
currant jelly
mint chocolate foam
and others i cant remember. i had a double espresso and a glass of remy xo with dessert.

the meal went from about 10:45 until around 1:30. they provided me a car and driver back to the intercontinental.